Automail Pepakura Files Ironman

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Here's the DIY of IRONMAN 2! This is my first experience doing something like this and I want to share it, 4 long months working all weekends. This is the pepakura method, so you need a lot of patience. 'Get ready for.' Stage First list of material: Scisors Knife Paper Cardstock Hot Glue Your PC and Printer Pepakura Viewer software DOWNLOAD Pepakura software.

DOWNLOAD Pepakura files. (may 25, 2014) UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!! (may 25, 2014) (Updated on JUN 12, 2012) Thanks to ROBO for this awesome files!!!

The best 3D model of ironman on the web! Step 1: 'Print - Cut - Paste'. Once you have all the files in your PC, you proceed to print each part. Cutting the pieces by the solid line. The dotted line is for 'mountain' folding and the dot-line-dot is for 'valley' folding.

Match each tab with its corresponding number using hot glue, helped with the Pepakura Viewer to identify easily each piece. Do the same with all the parts one by one to avoid confusing the pieces. TIP: Save each printed & cutted page of the part in numbered folders for easy identifying. Step 2: 'Fiberglassing'.

Second list of material: Fiber glass resin (with its hardener) Fiber glass mat Scissors Aluminium foil Aerosol Can Lubricant (WD-40) Gloves Paint Brushes Respirator Protective Eye Glasses Dremel Tool Prapare a table with Aluminium foil, spray lubricant over it. This will help us to avoid the resin stick to the table.

Cut the Fiber Glass mat in small or big strips depending on the part size. Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator.

Mix a small portion of the resin (I used 1/4 of a cup) with the catalyst (10 to 20 drops, depending on the weather, if it's hot, with 10 drops it's ok. As long as you work with this you will know how many drops you'll need). Once the catalyst is added, you will only have 15 minutes to work with it aprox. Start applying one strip of Fiberglass Mat, and resin over it in the inner side of the part.

Repeat this until you have all the part cover it. After applying the first layer let dry about 15 mins, and continue with the second layer.

This is really important on the big parts, like the chest, back, legs, helmet etc, because 1 layer stills flexible and weak. Resin the outside of the part very well and letting it dry 24 hours. After the part is solid to the touch, trim the excess of fiber glass mat using the dremel tool. TIP: Let dry the parts under the sunlight, the heat accelerates the drying process. Step 3: 'Body Filler / Sanding'. Material list: Body Filler (with its hardener) Spot Putty Squeegee Wood piece (surface for mixing) 40 grit Sandpaper 150 grit Sandpaper 600 grit Sandpaper Rubber Sanding Block Wet rag Gloves Respirator Protective Eye Glasses Dremel Tool Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator. Mix very well a small portion of the body filler and hardener until you have a one color mix. Here's my technique.

First body filler layer: Using the squeegee, apply body filler all over the part to give some body trying to let a smooth finish, let it dry some minutes (time depends on the amount of catalyst) until it is perfectly solid. Trittico Botticelliano Program Notes Randall. Using 40 grid Sandpaper and the Rubber Sanding Block, sand it just to remove the sharp points and edges. Clean up the dust with the wet rag. Second body filler layer: Apply body filler giving the necessary rounded shape of the part, and let it dry. Sand it with the 40 grid Sandpaper and the Rubber Sanding Block. After the surface is smooth, use the 150 grit Sandpaper and sand it again and you'll notice a smoothest surface. Clean up with the wet rag.

Third body filler layer: Watch for voids and imperfections, apply body filler to it. Sand it using the 150 grit Sandpaper.

Clean up with the wet rag. Now you should have an almost perfect shape of the part. Using the squeegee apply one very thin layer of Spot Putty to all the surface, as thin the layer is, the fastest it will dry. After some minutes with the Spot Putty dried, sand it using the 600 grit Sandpaper, Clean up with the wet rag again.

Use the dremel tool for line details, or any other kind of detail you need or want. TIP: if you notice a deep void after applying and sanding the Spot Putty, fill it up with body filler, sand it, and apply again Spot putty and sand it. Is easier repair big or deep imperfections with body filler rather than Spot potty because of the drying time.

Step 4: Shoes & Hardware. Material: Can of foam 4 Screws (1/4') Gloves Protective Eye Glasses Dremel Tool The shoes need to be filled to support the weight. After assembling the 3 parts of the shoes, drill a hole in front of the shoe, and another hole on the back using the dremel tool. Fill it with foam and let it dry 24 hours.The shoe now should support a person. To link the forearm and the bicep, drill a 1/4' hole on the biceps and elbow as shown in the photo. (this can be performed after or before primer, I did it after apply primer) Step 5: Priming and Painting. Materials: Primer (sandable) 1000 or 2000 grit Water Sandpaper Water bucket Chrome paint Gold paint Red paint Clear paint Masking Tape newspaper Sponge Rag Gloves Respirator Protective Eye Glasses Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator.

Apply sandable primer to all the parts (2 layers) Let it dry at least 30-60 mins. Fill the bucket with water. Wet the part with the sponge and sand the parts using the 1000 or 2000 grit Water Sandpaper. Sand it trying to do not remove the primer at all (if you remove some primer at the edges it's ok).

Now you can start with the fun stage, where all your work will get shiny and awesome. Paint all the parts with chrome paint, you'll be impressed of how good it looks.

Apply 2 coats letting dry at least 30 mins between coats. The chrome is the base color in order that you'll have a metallic finish. After 24 hours you can continue with the gold coat, paint all the gold details and parts. There's no problem if you paint accidentally some area that should be red.

Wait another 24 hours and cover with newspaper and masking tape areas that should be chrome or gold. Now you can apply 2 to 4 coats of the red paint depending on the intense of color that you want. Let the parts dry for at least 3-5 days, and now you are ready to assembly and wear them! Step 6: Lighting Up the Eyes, Chest, and Hands. Material: 25 LEDs (3-5 volts) Speaker wire (25 ft aprox) Solder Insulator tape Wire Stripping Pliers 2 AA battery case 2 AA batteries Red Gloves Switch Hot glue Plastic folder Reflective shades Dremel Tool Eye protection glasses Place 2 leds on each eye using hot glue. Remove from a reflective shades, the 'cristals' and paste them on the eyes with hot glue. For the chest light, arrange several LEDs (15) in a piece of cardboard, and secure with hot glue.

Assembly all the finger pieces on a plastic glove. Paste them with hot glue. Use 3 LED's for each hand, paste them with hot glue. These LED's will turn on just when the hand is open, for doing this, we'll let the circuit open on a finger (as shown in the photo), in order that when the hand is open, the circuit will close and the LED's will turn on. Using your eye protection glasses and dremel tool, cut 2 small circles and a triangle from the plastic for the hands and chest piece. The plastic can be any rigid plastic, I used an old plastic folder Now you can wire everything (using solder and insulator tape) to the 2 AA battery case that should be mounted on the inner chest with hot glue as shown in the photo. Mount a switch and connect it as well to the 2 AA battery case.

Step 7: Details. Here links to High resolution pictures from each part of the suit. HELMET NECK SEAL CHEST ABS BACK ARMS SHOULDERS HANDS right LEG left LEG SHOES MARK VI CHEST http://imageshack.us/g/1/9920811/.

It was a huge success last year. As I recall, the pepakura printouts and cutting was the most time consuming. Pro 100 Торрент. I would combine as many sections as I could and print on normal paper (make sure alignment numbers are visible).

From there, I would use adhesive spray to attach to the cardboard. I then use a blade to cut out each piece of cardboard. Using hot glue, I was able to piece the cutouts together for each section.

The cardboard alone will not hold up, especially with moisture from rain, humidity and sweat. The Epoxy is critical to ensure pieces stay together. Make sure you are in workspace with tarps as the Epoxy will dry hard as rock and ruin anything valuable. If you are committed to the full suit, you should by the gallon kit: Epoxy, paint, hot glue and a few ribbon lights should be your overall expense. All done, it cost me $150 as the cardboard came from old boxes.

TIP: By accident, I made the suit a little big and was freaking out halfway through. However, the epoxy actually caused the cardboard pieces to shrink by 5-10%. In the end the suit was a little big but it caused enough overlap which developed a level of exaggeration which better hide undergarments. Dali-lomo.blogspot.com is a cool blog that has tips and tricks for building iron-man pieces from cardboard. I actually used his tutorial for the hands as they came out better then the pepakura version in this tutorial. Sorry it has been some time since I did it.

It is certainly not 25% bigger, if anything it would be closer to 10%. Each% difference makes a drastic change. As for printing. Many of the pre-cut pieces were too large. There is actually a cut tool that allows you to break down larger pieces to various pages. Do make sure to match up the tabs/numbers. *advice* Save time printing and cutting by using the Papakura tools to combine smaller pieces before printing.

It helps make cutting cardboard easier later on.:). I made this costume a while back (2012-2013) using recycled materials. I used empty beer cans ( after cutting top and bottom of the can making aluminum sheets of the rest ) and using toner transfer method for the pepakura printed pieces. Then after cutting them I used a hot glue gun to glue pieces together. After that I applied newspaper pieces soaked into PVA glue ( Disney's art attack method). Next I used sandpaper to smooth the pieces and finally I applied primer and spray paint.

It was a very cheap build( 70 euros - 80$ total), very light (6 or 7 kg) and pretty durable. If you mean connecting the pieces of the 6 pack area, then I think you line up the front bit as you obviously would and the part that doesn't obviously connect behind those pieces you just have to align the part that you can see. So the nub that connects the 6 pack pieces to each other, just figure out where that goes and stick the remaining bits of that piece down.

If you mean the 6 pack area to the part that wraps around your back, then you just have to guess or eyeball it. Try putting it on to find where it would connect when you wear it. Hope that helps.