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Repair Your Hard Disk in Single User Mode Mac OS X has a built-in disk diagnostic and repair program called fsck or file system consistency check. Unlike Disk Utility, which can only verify the current startup disk, fsck will verify and repair the current startup disk. Here’s how to verify and repair your startup disk with fsck. Start or restart your Mac.

As soon as you hear the startup tone, press and hold Command-S on the keyboard. Keep holding down those keys until you see a black screen with white lettering. This is called “booting into Single User Mode.” As soon as you see the black screen with white lettering, you can release the keys. The single user mode screen As the Mac boots in this mode, the screen reports each step of the process. Wait until the scrolling white text stops.

The last line should end in root#. Right after the root# prompt, enter the following: /sbin/fsck -fy Press the Return key. You’ll see the prompts in the picture above as each part of the hard drive’s directory is checked. (Checking extents overflow file, Checking catalog file, Checking multi-linked files, etc.) It will take a few minutes. At the end, if your drive was OK, the screen will say “The volume (name of your hard drive) appears to be OK”. If any repair was made, you’ll see the prompt, “FILE SYSTEM WAS MODIFIED”.

Then, you’ll see the root# prompt again. Right after the root# prompt, enter the following: reboot Press the Return key. Your Mac should restart normally. 181 Responses to “Repair Your Hard Disk in Single User Mode” • Sanchit Says: I got “The volume Macintosh HD could not be repaired.” message after this is complete? What should I do now?

• Says: There are a few possible next steps. Contact a Mac consultant to have your disk repaired. To find a Mac consultant that’s part of the Apple Consultant’s Network, go to and enter your zip code. A list of consultants in your area will appear, along with addresses, phone numbers, and star ratings from their clients.

If you prefer to go the do-it-yourself route, purchase Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro. You can’t repair the disk from which your Mac is currently booted, so you’ll have to boot from a different drive, install Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro on that disk, and run it.

Both those programs have much greater capabilities for repairing damaged disk directories than the FSCK routine built into Mac OS X. If you want to go the cheapest do-it-yourself route, simply back up your drive to another drive, reformat it with Disk Utility, then restore all the data from the backup.

The downside of this choice is that if the disk’s directory is badly damaged, some files may not be able to be copied accuratelyyou may lose a some of your files. That’s less likely with the other two choices. Everything Macintosh is a Mac consulting company, and we can help if you contact us at 800-916-9695 or email us at *protected email*. Our service rates are posted on the Rates & Terms page of this web site. Hope that helps. • Sanchit Says: Hey Darryl. Thanks a lot.

I followed 3rd choice and fortunately got all of my data 🙂 • Darryl Says: I love it when things work! • Says: Thank you! Worked perfect.

• Lee Says: Hi Darryl I’ve tried /sbin/fsck -fy. And I get this message The volume macintosh hd could not be verified completely. Please help I’m dying here • Says: Sorry to hear you’re having a problem, Lee. If repairing the disk in single user mode fails, it means one of two things. Either your hard drive itself is failing (a hardware failure), or the directory damage on your hard drive is beyond the capability of the built-in repair procedures in OS X. The primary goal this situation is to prevent the loss of your files, so here are the steps I take in cases like this. Before doing anything else, it’s important to attempt to make a backup of the failed drive.

If the backup is successful, you’ll know you have your documents, pictures, musicwhatever you keep on the computer. Purchase a copy of Disk Warrior. Disk Warrior is a commercial disk repair program that comes on a bootable DVD, and it’s directory repair capabilities are much more comprehensive than the built-in routines in OS X.

Disk Warrior will analyze the current state of your hard drive and create a completely new, optimized directory. Once that’s done, if the Disk Warrior finds the hard drive itself to be healthy, it can write the optimized directory on your hard disk, replacing the damaged directory.

In many cases, that will fix the problem and you’ll be able to reboot from your internal drive. If Disk Warrior finds your hard disk is not healthy (it has hardware issues, or has insufficient space to write the new directory), it will let you knowand won’t be able to write the replacement directory. However it will be able to mount an image of your damaged drive using the new directory on screen, and you can back up all your files from that image either using a backup program like Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper!, or manually drag the files to another drive. If all of the above fails, and Disk Warrior reports that the drive has hardware problems that make it impossible to create the optimized directory or display the image of your disk on screen, you’ll have to send your drive to a commercial data recovery company. Data recovery companies are capable of disassembling your hard drive in clean room conditions, and either repairing the drive itself or removing the actual disk within the drive that contains the data and implanting it in another working mechanism, then recovering the files.

The hardware issues that typically affect drives are that the motor responsible for spinning the disk is no longer able to make it spin at the correct speed (or at all), the read/write heads in the drive have become damaged and can no longer read the magnetic charges on the disk’s surface, or damage has been done to the disk’s surface. I see your email address is at hotmail.co.uk. I can certainly recommend data recovery companies I’ve had good results with, but since we’re based in the US you’d probably do better to google data recovery companies in the UK.

Let me know how I can help further. If I were closer to you I’d come by and have a lookunder the circumstances it would be a very long commute. • jordan Says: will this work for a corrupted hd i want to wipe my mac entirely • Says: It may work to repair the damage on your corrupted HD, but it won’t wipe your Mac completely.

If you’re really serious about completely wiping your hard disk, here’s what to do: If you’re running OS X 10.7 or later, reboot your computer while holding down the Option key. The initial gray screen will show icons for your normal hard drive and a Recovery Partition. Click on the Recover Partition and boot up.

Once you get to the desktop, a box will appear that gives you several options. Click the option to launch Disk Utility. In the Disk Utility window, click on your hard drive’s name in the column at the left side.

In the main portion of the window, click the Erase button. In the Erase window, click on the Security button, and click the option to zero all sectors, then click the OK button. Now click the Erase button to erase the hard disk.

Clicking the zero all sectors option not only writes zeros over all your data, it also checks the entire disk surface for unreliable sectors. If it finds any, it adds those sector numbers to a list of “do not use” sectors, after which the drive will not write any data to those sectorsmaking the entire drive more reliable. If you’re running OS X 10.6 or earlier, you’d have to boot your Mac from an installation DVD or an external hard drive, launch Disk Utility from that drive, and do the same thing. OS X 10.6 and earlier don’t have a Recovery Partition.

Hope that helps. • Honey Says: I got the message that my drive seems to be okay, yet the reboot sends me again to endless gray screen. • Says: Next try a “Safe Boot”. The Safe Boot disables any third party software that normally loads at boot up, but more importantly it rebuilds the Launch Database on your hard disk. Rebuilding the Launch Database frequently resolves the problem of the gray screen. Turn off the Mac.

Then start it up while holding down the Shift key. (If you have a wireless keyboard, begin holding down the Shift key after you’ve heard the startup chime.) Continue to hold down the Shift key until you see a status bar at the bottom of the screen, beneath the gray Apple and the spinning gear. Then release the key. Your Mac will always boot to the login screen when doing a Safe Boot, even if it normally goes directly to the desktop. Once you get to the login screen, simply restart one more time, this time without holding down any keys. • Edwin Says: After following this, in the end I get the “volume could not be repaird after 3 attempts” “Disk has been modified” Or at least close to that. Any suggestion on this?

• Says: That means that the disk’s directory is damaged beyond the ability of the built-in repair capabilities of OS X. It’s at this point I usually recommend getting a Mac professional like Everything Macintosh involved. All of us carry disk repair programs with capabilities far beyond those built into OS X. However if you want to continue to try to fix this yourself, there are commercially available disk repair utilities that do a great job. My favorite is Disk Warrior from Alsoft (). It’s easy to use and completely rebuilds an optimized disk directory for your drive, and costs roughly $100.

If that fails, your drive likely need to be recovered rather than fixed, and at that point you really need to get a Mac professional like Everything Macintosh involved. • Edwin Says: Thanks. Since being in The Netherlands, I think I will go to Macrepair.nl or one of the other repair sites. Not much luck with Apple this year 🙁 • Brendan Says: I followed the prompts, got “FIle System was Modified,” but then when I tried to reboot, I got a kernel panic. • Says: Did you see the gray apple, then get the kernel panic? If that’s the case, either there is a problem with your OS X installation, there is a problem with the launch databases on your hard disk, or there is a third party piece of software loading at startup that’s triggering OS X to panic. To figure out which, try Safe Bootingstart your computer, and as soon as you hear the startup chime begin holding down the Shift key on the keyboard.

That does two things: it disables third party software from loading, and it rebuilds the launch databases on your hard disk. Both of those things are beneficial. A safe boot takes longer than a normal boot because of the rebuilding of those databases, so keep holding down the Shift key until you see a status bar appear at the bottom of the screen (OS X 10.6-10.8), or until you get to the login window (OS X 10.4 & 10.5). Just so you’re not surprised, even if you normally boot directly to your desktop, when you safe boot you always go to the login windowyou have to enter your password to get to your desktop. If you get a kernel panic during the safe boot (and never get to the login window), it’s a reasonably safe bet that there’s a problem with OS X itself, so you should reinstall it. If you get to the login window, log in by entering you password.

When you get to the desktop, simply restart normally without holding down any keys. If you now boot up normally, the problem was likely with the launch databases, and the safe boot resolved it by rebuilding them. If you still get the kernel panic, there’s probably some third party software trying to load during boot up, and it’s causing the panic either because it’s corrupt or incompatible with the version of OS X you’re running. In that case you’d have to safe boot so you can boot up, then disable any third party software normally loads at startup. Enable each piece of third party software one-by-one, rebooting after each one is enabled to see whether the newly enabled piece of software causes the panic.

When you find the culprit, if this is software you really need, check to see if there’s a later version available and install it. If you need further help you can contact us for remote, phone, or email support. Hope this fixes things, though. • Kayla Says: I completed each step as suggested above. When it came time to reboot it went to the gray apple screen with the loading wheel.

My computer continues to stay on this screen without any progress. Do you have any other suggestions? • Says: Funnyyou’re the second person to ask this question recently. For my answer, look at this reply I gave to Brendan on September 16: • Misty Says: I was able to log in single user mode. I did fsck -fy 3 times until it said the disk was ok. I was able to navigate and see my files still there. I then tried to reboot and still went to just the gray screen.

So now I’m trying to boot into safe mode. I get the progress bar, apple and spinning cog. Then it just goes to a blue screen. I never do hear the startup chime. No idea what to do now. • Says: The next step is to try a Safe Boot. Begin with your Mac turned off.

Start up your Mac, and immediately after you hear the startup tone begin holding down the Shift key on the keyboard. (If you have a wired keyboard, or are using the built-in keyboard on a laptop, you can start holding down the Shift key even before you startupbut with wireless keyboards it’s important to wait until you hear the startup tone because the Bluetooth connection between the computer and keyboard doesn’t happen until after the startup tone.) The bootup will take longer than usual because the Safe Boot does two things.

First, it disables any third party software that normally loads at startup. Second, and more importantly in this case, it rebuilds critical databases on your boot hard drive called Launch Databases. Corruption in these can cause the boot and blue screen issues you’ve described. Keep holding down the Shift key until you see a status bar appear on screen below the gray apple and spinning gear. Once you see the status bar, release the Shift key.

(If you’re running a version of OS X earlier than 10.6, there is no status barjust keep holding down the Shift key until you get to the login screen.) Even if your Mac normally boots directly to the desktop, when you Safe Boot it will go to the login screen. Enter your password, and go to the desktop. Then simply reboot normally.

Let me know if that resolves the issue! • Yousef Says: Hey it’s says the volume Macintosh had appears to be ok what should I do I reboot it but it’s still blue screen • Says: The next step is to do a “Safe Boot” Goldy. Start with your Mac powered off. Press the power button, and when you hear the startup sound hold down the Shift key on your keyboard. Continue to hold the shift key until you see the gray screen with the dark gray apple, and, at the bottom of the screen, a status bar. As soon as you see the status bar you can release the Shift key. Booting up will take longer than usual because the Safe Boot rebuilds the Launch Database, an important file on your hard drive.

When that file becomes damaged (occasionally), it can prevent booting up. If that fails to resolve the issue, we’d probably need to see your Mac to make a diagnosis. Let us know if we can be of further help. • tim Says: Doing a forced FSCK saved me. I had to run it twice as it will only do 3 passes by default (after the first set of passes, it said it couldn’t fix the disk, but a subsequent run got everything).

Loginto to single user mode then: fsck_hfs -y -Rc -d /dev/disk0s2 GOLD! Saved my bacon. Hope it saves yours too. *** I have no idea why OSX just doesn’t do a forced FSCK in the first place. • Says: Bravo!! • Roger Says: My Macbook with Mountain Lion will not boot either.

I tried your suggestion of Command+S and /sbin/fsck -fy Came back modifications were made. I ran it again and got Disk appears to be ok. Rebooted and the first time it did boot successfully but then locked up. Did those steps again and each time got Disk appears to be OK. But it gets hung up at the gray apple logo screen with the fan spinning fast. This drive is a 1Tb drive I added after my first driver failed.

I am wondering if I need to try Disk Warrior? Any suggestions would be most helpful! • Says: The next step is to try a “Safe Boot”. The Safe Boot disables any third party software that normally loads at boot up, but more importantly it rebuilds the Launch Database on your hard disk. Rebuilding the Launch Database frequently resolves the problem of getting stuck at the gray screen with the Apple.

A corrupt launch database can cause boot up problems and lots of other oddball issues where programs don’t launch or behave strangely. Turn off the Mac. Then start it up while holding down the Shift key. (If you have a wireless keyboard, begin holding down the Shift key after you’ve heard the startup chime.) Continue to hold down the Shift key until you see a status bar at the bottom of the screen, beneath the gray Apple and the spinning gear.

Then release the key. Your Mac will always boot to the login screen when doing a Safe Boot, even if it normally goes directly to the desktop. Once you get to the login screen, simply restart one more time, this time without holding down any keys. Let me know if that fixes things.

• Roger Says: OK, so I do that and get the status bar, it goes through that step but hangs when the status bar goes away and the spinning gear starts. It spins for about 30 seconds then stops and thats as far as it goes. • David Says: My computer shuts off before booting into the OS.

Tried running fsck and got thiscan anyone make sense of it? Also, is there any way to restore the OS (formatted for all I care) without a disc.and will that fix the problem? Here’s the message I got; /dev/rdisk0s2 Root file system Executing fsck_hfs (version diskdev_cmds-491.6~3).

Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume. Checking extents overflow file. Checking catalog file. Invalid sibling link (4, 7543) Rebuilding catalog B-tree.

Disk full error The volume Macintosh HD could not be repaired. /dev/rdisk0s2 (hfs) EXITED WITH SIGNAL 8 Anyone who can help is a friggin’ saint! • Says: In the message you got, third line from the bottom, it says “Disk full error”. Your disk doesn’t have enough free space for fsck to do its job. Computers use free space on the hard disk as temporary work space, and when there isn’t enough free space available they can’t do their job. Lack of free space is also one reason a computer runs very slowly. You either need to replace your internal drive with a larger one (using a disk copying program like Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper!

To copy all the data from your existing drive to the new one)which would give you more free space on the internal driveor copy some of the data on the internal drive to another drive, then trash it from the internal and empty the trash to reclaim the space. • David Says: Is there any way I can delete some files from single user mode?

• David Says: I was able to delete my downloads folder which allowed an fsck to run! I’ll check back in soon. • jude Says: when I use a single user mode the checks everything out as good buT, as I try to boot into my primary HD the message kernel message sex is too large now I’m trying tochange the volume size or delete its all together or make mine PC recognize it nothing is working help • Says: If you’re running OS X 10.7 or later, my suggestion would be to boot from the recovery partition and reinstall OS X. (To do that, restart your Mac while holding down the Option key. A gray screen will appear with icons for all the bootable disks available to your Mac. Under OS X 10.7 or later, one of those is the Recovery Disk. Either double-click on it, or use the cursor keys on your keyboard to highlight it, then click the Return key to boot from it).

You can find more info about reinstalling your OS in Apple’s tech notesjust search for “reinstall os x”. • Matt Says: Upgraded to mavericks nothing but pain. Followed advice above.

Keep getting incorrect number of thread records. 4,228 • Says: I’ve been recommending to my clients that they wait a while to upgrade to Mavericks. Typically, the initial release or two of any software has issues. These days, the problem seems to be that most of the “beta testers” Apple uses are their third party developersmost of whom don’t use their computers the way most people do. They find the technical bugs well enough, but not the usability bugs. Once the new release becomes available to everyone, the earliest adapters become the guinea pigs that get bit by the usability bugs.

They’re always corrected in subsequent updates, to I always recommend waiting about 3-6 months before upgrading to a new major version of any software. That gives plenty of time for the developer to release several updates to correct issues, and in the case of OS X gives the third party developers enough time to develop stable updates for their programs to run under the new OS.

Sorry you had the problem. You’ll need to use a third party utility like Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro to fix your disk if using fsck didn’t work. I usually consider fsck, which uses the same disk repair routines as Disk Utility, as the most basic of the disk repair utilities, and also the one least likely to result in any unexpected data loss after the repair is complete. Disk Warrior is much more comprehensive, and not only repairs many more directory issues than fsck, but also creates a brand new, optimized directory for the hard disk that should run more efficiently than the older, fragmented directory. TechTool Pro is my third choice, and checks and repairs some issues than neither fsck or DiskWarrior do. So for most people (not techies like me), Disk Warrior’s simple interface and comprehensive repair capabilities make it the disk repair utility I strongly recommend in these cases. It’s about $99.99, and comes on a bootable DVD.

Booting from the DVD allows Disk Utility to make its repairs on your boot disk. • Steve Says: i have completed everything that you said above. With recovery, normal or safe mode no matter what i use, my computer sits in the grey screen, with an apple logo, and the spinning circle, but then it freezes and then restarts automatically. Not sure how to get osx to reinstall.

I’ve used a fire wire to save my photos to another computer, now i just want to wipe it and get it working again. I’ve even made a bootable usb, but same problems, the computer freezes and then restarts • Says: If you’re running OS X 10.7 or later, reboot your Mac while holding down the Option key. X Force Autodesk 2012 Keygen Download. Release the Option key when you get to a gray screen with icons for all bootable disks currently available to your Mac. One of those disks (normally located right next to the normal Macintosh HD icon) is the Recovery Disk.

Either double-click on the Recovery Disk to boot your Mac from that disk, or use the cursor keys on the keyboard to highlight that icon, then press the Return key to boot from that disk. In the window that appears, you’ll see choices for reinstalling OS X, launching Disk Utility and other maintenance choices. If you’re running Snow Leopard or earlier, you must have an installer DVD to reinstall • Lynne Says: Thanks a bunch! That worked 🙂 • Lauren Says: Hello, thanks for all the tips.

I have tried to get past the gray spinning screen numerous ways – reset pram, start in safe mode, etc., now I’m onto the single user mode, when it checks the extended attributes file it gives me this: Invaild index key (8, 499) It tries to repair then reaches and continues this process over and overwhat should I do? I live overseas now so I don’t have my discs. • Says: Normally, my next recommendation would be to repair your hard disk with a third party utility like Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro. Both come on bootable DVDs, so you’d boot from the DVD, then run the program on your internal drive. Unfortunately you’d have to buy those, so there’s another less costly step you can try first. If I were in your situation I’d so this: 1. Clone (make an exact copy of) your entire startup drive to another hard drive.

You can do this using Carbon Copy Cloner (which is my favorite backup/disk cloning program). There is a free trial, so you don’t have to buy it to use it once or twice. (Unfortunately, if you don’t have an external drive, you’ll probably have to buy onebut they’re usually not terribly costly.) 2. Reboot up from the backup. (Use the Startup Disk preference pane to set the external backup disk as the boot disk, then restart). Use Disk Utility from the backup disk to erase your entire internal drive.

Before clicking the Erase button, click the Security Options button and click the choice to Zero all Sectors. You don’t need to use the options for writing zeros 7 times or moreonce is enough.

The reason for choosing this option has nothing to do with zeroing the data for security reasonswhen you select this option, Disk Utility also checks every sector (data storage compartment) on the drive to make sure it’s reliably storing what’s written to it. Occasionally disks have sectors where the magnetic coating that stores the data is too thin to store the data reliablyand disks can develop more with use as they age. All disks also are designed with “spare sectors” that Disk Utility and other repair programs can substitute for unreliable sectors. That’s what we’re trying to do. Writing zeros and checking the disk for bad sectors makes this kind of erasure take much longer than normalbut it’s well worth the wait. Use Carbon Copy Cloner from the backup drive to clone the backup drive back to your internal drive, making it essentially the same as it was beforeexcept healthy.

Boot from the internal drive. If that fails, there may be no choice but to reinstall OS X. • Isabella Says: I’ve done the safety boot and held it till the grey scale is there the I release, but its been on the grey page for At least an hr. What should I do? • Says: Here’s the reply I posted on July 26 for someone else who had the same experience, Isabella: Next try a “Safe Boot”. The Safe Boot disables any third party software that normally loads at boot up, but more importantly it rebuilds the Launch Database on your hard disk.

Rebuilding the Launch Database frequently resolves the problem of the gray screen. Turn off the Mac. Then start it up while holding down the Shift key. (If you have a wireless keyboard, begin holding down the Shift key after you’ve heard the startup chime.) Continue to hold down the Shift key until you see a status bar at the bottom of the screen, beneath the gray Apple and the spinning gear. Then release the key. Your Mac will always boot to the login screen when doing a Safe Boot, even if it normally goes directly to the desktop.

Once you get to the login screen, simply restart one more time, this time without holding down any keys. • Jacob Paterson Says: Hi Darryl, I tried the command + S on bootup. I waited a few minutes and then a sprawl of errors came up. The error returned was cannot mount root errno = 19. I also went into Command + R and check Disk Utility, Machintosh HD is not even there. Could this be a mounting issue? Thanks, Jacob.

• Says: The next step is a third party disk repair program like Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro. Both must be run from an external drive, because it’s not possible to repair the directory on the current boot disk your computer is using.

If you have a backup drive that’s bootable, you could use that. Unfortunately Time Machine backups aren’t bootable. Another possibility would be to get a friend who has a working Mac to install OS X on an external USB hard drive. You could then use that drive to boot your Mac, copy on Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro, and repair your internal drive. • Dee Goree Says: Daryl, I’ve tried the CMD+S key and got the disk could not be verified. I have Bootcamp and my laptop won’t boot into Safe Mode, it goes directly to the Windows Prompt. I wasn’t able to reinstall Lion because the option was locked, no idea how to unlock it.

Disk Utility says to back everything up and reformat the drive, how do I do that if I can’t get into my system to do that? I know this is a dumb question, but is there a way to run Disk Warrior without being able to actually get into you computer to run it?

• Says: Whether your internal drive is bootable or not, you’d need to run Disk Warrior from an external bootable drive (USB or a bootable CD, DVD, or Flash Drive). The reason is that Disk Warrior can’t repair the directory of the current boot drive. By booting from an external disk with OS X installed, the internal drive is no longer the current boot driveand Disk Warrior can fix it.

If you happen to have a friend or colleague with a Mac who can install OS X on an external USB hard drive, you can boot from that drive, copy Disk Warrior onto the drive, and run it on the internal drive. • bandatatman Says: Hey Darryl I rebooted into (command s) mode and entered the fsck_hfs -y -Rc -d/dev/disk0s2. I get b size = size of physical blocks B path = c size = E = d = f= (Etc etc.) what do from here • Says: What you did was to get info on the disk rather than to initiate a directory scan and repair. Just type: /sbin/fsck -fy Then press the Return key. In a second or two, the directory scan will begin and you can follow the instructions in this article. • Fiesta Says: Even when i start from safe mode i still get a blue screen • Says: If you’re using a wireless keyboard, that can happen if you begin holding down the Shift key too soon.

Wireless keyboards depend on software to load during the boot process before the computer recognizes the existence of the keyboard. If you press the Shift key before that happens, the computer doesn’t sense the actual pressing of the key. Try it again, and wait a second after you hear the startup sound before pressing the Shift key. Most 3rd party wireless keyboard have LEDs on them that display when the caps lock is on, and with those keyboards you can usually tell exactly when the computer has recognized them because that LED will blink. Apple’s wireless keyboards don’t have an LED, so it’s harder to tell when the computer recognizes them.

But try a few different timings after the startup sound and you should eventually catch it at the right moment. • fratres Says: Hi darryl, thank you for your detailed description of the capabilities of single user mode. I have a corrupted system (or hard disk) and would like to check if I can repair it, but I have the following combination of errors: – full disk error when trying fsck -fy (only 300 MB left) and the cannot be repaired sentence – read-only of the root disk so I can’t delete files via target disk mode How can I enable the rights to wright on the disk, either in single user mode or via target disk mode? Any help is appreciated! • Says: Insufficient space on the disk is a big problem. Any repair procedure requires free space on the hard drive to hold temporary files needed by the procedure if there isn’t enough RAM to hold them exclusively in RAM.

Obviously 300MB isn’t sufficient in your casewhich means you somehow need to boot from a different hard drive to repair this one. Here’s what I would try next. If you’re running OS X 10.7 or later, you can start up your Mac while holding down the Option key on the keyboard. You should come to a gray screen with icons for all drives available to your Mac which have a bootable OS X.

With OS X 10.7 or later, there is an “invisible” Recovery Drive that will be listed in addition to your regular internal drive (Macintosh HD or whatever you’ve named it). Use the cursor or arrow keys on the keyboard to select the Recovery Drive. Your Mac will boot up to a screen that can run Disk Utility, reinstall OS X, and do other maintenance procedures. Plug in an external USB drive and install OS X on that drivewhich will make it a bootable drive.

Then boot up from that drive, move a few gigabytes of data from the internal drive to that external, then use Disk Utility (on the external drive) to repair the internal. Unfortunately if you’re running OS X 10.6.8 or earlier, there is no Recovery DriveOS X must be installed from an external DVD. If you have that System Install DVD, you can boot from it and install OS X on the external USB drivethen do what I suggested after booting from the external drive. If you don’t have the System install DVD you’ll either need to get hold of one, or contact a local Mac service person to help you. • Jim Says: I am having problems similar to all those listed above. When I try to boot normally, I get the grey screen with apple logo and loading bar.

The bar does not progress, I hear some computer-esque noises and it shuts off. The machine won’t boot in safe mode either. Same thing happens. When I tried to boot to a recovery disk, nothing but OSX 10.9 was available I clicked the arrow below that disk and the same thing happened. (Greg screen then auto shut-off.) I tried to do the FSCK process someone mentioned above and after it “checked the Catalog File” it said my OSX 10.9 could not be verified and the machine shut off.

• Says: Unfortunately, Jim, your drive has more damage than the fsck procedure can fix. You’ll need to use a third party utility like Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro to fix your disk. Both are much more comprehensive than the basic repair procedures built into OS X itself. You’ll have to boot from the Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro DVD, then run the program to repair your hard disk. Disk Warrior is the easier of the two programs to use, is available for $99.95 from aloft.com, and has a great feature which brings up a preview of the repaired hard drive as an icon on your desktop before you actually tell it to do the repair.

That’s handy if Disk Warrior can’t repair your disk (which can happen if there is insufficient free space for Disk Warrior’s temporary files)you can recover the damaged drive by copying its entire contents from the preview image to an external drive, then erase or replace the internal drive and copy all your data back. Wish I had better news • Spiros Says: Hi Darryl I have a MBP late 2011 with 2 disks. SSD and HDD I had the home folder on the HDD and bootet from the SSD. I recently got a larger SSD and there is no need to have the home folder at the HDD so I did a clean install, copied the files from the HDD to the SSD except the movies, iTunes, and iphoto folders which I will keep on the HDD since they are huge The problem is that iTunes wont see the library from the hdd since I get a “You don’t have permissions or the disk ids locked” message. I have changed the permissions from Get Info and applied to the containing folders. Iphoto has a permitions repair tool that fixes the issue and I see my previous library. I can;t even create the invisible link for the movies folder since i get a message on the terminal that the folder does not exist while it does.

The remove ownership from disk check button doesn’t work as well Do you know how can I clear the permit ions for real from the HDD? • Says: My favorite tool for fixing difficult permissions issues is BatchMod, available for free. BatchMod has settings that will unlock locked disks, change permissions on disks, folders, or files, clear xattrs, which are special settings OS X uses to identify its special folders (the ones that have special icons), clears Access Control List permissions (which sometimes get inadvertently added), and can apply the settings you set for a disk or folder to all the items within that disk or folder in a single procedure. Drag the HDD on top of the BatchMod icon, which opens its window, the make sure the boxes for Owner, Group, and Everyone all have X marks (not dashes or blank), then click the Clear ACLs (10.5+) box, click the Apply to enclosed box, then click the Apply button. That should give iTunes permission to see your iTunes music on that drive. • fratres Says: Thanks for your reply, darryl. But your suggestion “Then boot up from that drive, move a few gigabytes of data from the internal drive to that external, then use Disk Utility (on the external drive) to repair the internal.” is exactly the problem I am having.

Getting access to the internal drive is not my problem, I can use target disk mode from another mac or an installation disc (it’s 10.6.8), so I could copy all the stuff from the internal drive. But I don’t have write access to the drive so I can’t “move a few gigabytes” to get more space.

Any solution for this? • Says: If you’re unable to change the permissions for your drive in the Get Info box, the solution would be to log in as the “root” user.

OS X treats the System as though it were another userbut a super user with unlimited access to everythingwhich overrides permissions issues. The short name for System is root. On OS X client versions, you have to manually enable the root user before you can log in as root.

On OS X Server the root is enabled by default. In both cases, the root user defaults to using the same password as the original administrative user account on that computer, but you can enter a password at the time yo enable the root user as well. Instructions for enabling the root user are at this web page: Once you’ve enabled the root user on the computer to which you’ve connected the target disk computer, log out of the current account and log in with the user name root, and the password for the root account. Once you get to the desktop, you should be able to freely drag files and folders from the target disk drive. I that doesn’t resolve the problem, your target disk hard drive may need to be recovered. • Walter Says: Hi all, After install for working The CUDA SDK 5.0, i have reboot mavericks 10.9.1 and it freeze during boot. I have tryed safe mode but not working.

I have tryed recovery mode, the disk get me The errors: Sibling link Could not repair disk With fsck_HFS i get: disk full error How can resolve first buy disk warrior, if it resolve The problem? I can buy with 100$ also a SSD disk if need change it. I have tryed to read disk with another mac and The users files are ok. • Says: Hi, Walter. If you’re getting a Disk Full error, there isn’t enough available space on the hard disk for the temporary files created during fsck, or for the files created when the Launch Databases are recreated during a Safe Boot. (Either there really isn’t enough space on the drive, or the directory of the drive is damaged, so its reporting insufficient space even if there is available space.) The chances are that if the drive really hasn’t enough available space, Disk Warrior will also have a problem fixing it.

Since you’re able to see all the files when you read the problem disk on another Mac, here’s another way to go about fixing the problem. Mount the problem disk on the other Mac and use a backup program like Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper! (there are lots of them) to copy the entire problem hard drive to an external drive. Use Disk Utility to erase the problem drive. I recommend selecting Security Options in the Disk Utility window and setting the slider to write a single pass of zeros over the entire disk. It’s not that I’m concerned about zeroing out the data. When you use that option, Disk Utility also checks the disk for sectors that don’t hold data reliably (because their magnetic coating is too thin).

Whenever it finds sectors like that, it marks them as “do not use”. The drive has a certain number of “spare sectors” that can be substituted for bad sectors, so as long as the drive has spare sectors available, Disk Utility will substitute them if necessary. That way once the drive is successfully erased, you know it should be reliable. Us the backup program to restore the disk from the backup. Or, even better, install a clean copy of OS X on the disk, then use Migration Assistant to copy the programs and user accounts from the backup.

By installing the clean OS X you know that the operating system is 100% healthy. Hope that helps! • Walter Says: Hi, thx for reply, I have mounted the disk with Snow Leopard Server and I have copied only users folder, I need only this. I have recheck the disk with fsck_hfs, this is result: antwal-server:~ antwal$ fsck_hfs -fd /dev/disk5s2 ** /dev/rdisk5s2 Using cacheBlockSize=32K cacheTotalBlock=32768 cacheSize=1048576K. Executing fsck_hfs (version diskdev_cmds-491.6~3). Journal replayed successfully or journal was empty ** Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.

** Checking extents overflow file. ** Checking catalog file. Invalid sibling link (4, 25339) ** Rebuilding catalog B-tree. BlockFindAll: found 263922 blocks but needed 346112 Disk full error ** The volume Macintosh HD could not be repaired.

Volume type is pure HFS+ primary MDB is at block 0 0x00 alternate MDB is at block 0 0x00 primary VHB is at block 2 0x02 alternate VHB is at block 485320878 0x1ced68ae sector size = 512 0x200 VolumeObject flags = 0x07 total sectors for volume = 485320880 0x1ced68b0 total sectors for embedded volume = 0 0x00 I do not understand why mac os x does not start, instead the bootcamp partition with Windows 7 works perfectly. Perhaps the problem may depend on the cache?

However, the MAC partition I still have 20Gb of free space. Now I try to make a copy with Carbon Copy, then I can also replace the hard disk and reinstall everything. • diddy Says: how do i opt out of the single user mode? When i shut it down i have to start over again 🙁 • Says: Zap the PRAM in your Mac.

To do that, start with your Mac turned off. Power on your Mac, and as soon as you hear the status tone being holding down the following four keys on the keyboard: Command – Option – P – R Keep holding down those keys until you’ve heard the startup tone a total of four times (including the first startup), then release the keys and let you Mac boot up normally. Note: If you have a wireless keyboard, make sure not to press the keys until after you hear the initial startup tone. Before that, they keyboard hasn’t been recognized by the Mac, so key presses that happen before that are ignored. With wired keyboards, when you press makes less difference. • Christopher Says: Hi, Been running the latest version od Snow Leopard for a few years.

All of a sudden my computer freezes for 7-10 seconds any time i drag an open window, right click, control click, or click around between open folder/windows. Ram is all good memory all good.

Little usage going on. No page outs, etc. However, I have several disk permissions that don’t get repaired when I run disk utility or disk warrior.

I tried single user mode. Safe mode works great.

I have a disk partition running Lion and it works great. However, I want to work in the Snow Leopard partition. Any thoughts on how to resolve these freezing issues? • Says: If you’ve already run diagnostics in single user mode, and started in Safe mode, then the nest thing I would do is check for phishing scripts that might be running on your computer in the background. It’s easy to do, and free with ClamXavbut it will take a while depending on the size of your drive.

The instructions are on this page on this site: Phishing scripts don’t damage your OS, programs, or files. But they send out large volumes of email in the background to mailing lists of recipients that are usually stored on the computer of whoever wrote the script. They do this in the background, using your mail server. Because they’re actively doing what they do in the background, your computer is splitting processor cycles between doing what you’re trying to do on screen and continuing to process the outgoing mail in the backgroundusually the only symptom is that your Mac will be slower than normal. In troubleshooting unusually slow Macs, I have often found and removed 25 or 30 phishing scripts from a single Mac. They usually come in as attachments to an email, and as long as you don’t open the attachment they remain inactive. But even computer techs like me occasionally get fooled by a legitimate looking message I open when my mind is on something else.

So although ClamXav may find lots of them, chances are that most are inactive files just taking up space on the drive. You only need one or two active to slow things down.

• Will Says: Hello, My mac was fine and one day i went to turn it on and found it would not load. I tried a safe boot, then tried single user mode but got I/O Errors and Invalid Node structure errors forever. I put the computer in Target disk mode, transferred the files i want to keep and erased the Hard drive. Trying to load i get the Blinking folder with? So i created a recovery HD thumbdrive and ran disk utility, “Disk Utility Was Unable to repair the hard drive”. Is The Hard Drive Toast? Should i buy i new one of have it replaced?

• Says: I/O Errors usually means that the physical disk within your hard drive has areas where the magnetic coating is worn so thing (or scratched away) that those areas aren’t storing data reliably. When you buy a standard hard drive of any size, the claimed capacity of the drive is always a bit less than the real capacity. A percentage of the available space is held back as “spare space” that can be used to replace any bad areas of the surface of the disk. As long as the available spare space on the drive is equal to or greater than the space that’s unreliable, the unreliable area can be “mapped out” (meaning never used again), and anything that was going to be written there can be written into the spare space.

When there is less spare space than the bad space, the drive needs replacement. So here’s what I recommend. Erase your drive with Disk Utility. Crypter Cracked Rib. Before you actually click the Erase button in the window, click on the Security Options button.

Move the slider in the window that appears one step closer to the Most Secure setting. That causes Disk Utility to write zeros once over every sector of the drivebut part of that procedure also tests for unreliable sectors and maps them out, bringing spare sectors into play. If there are too many bad sectors (not enough spares), the erase will failand you need a new drive. If the erase succeeds, try restoring your data again.

It should work Good luck!! • Mendel Says: Unfortunately I have a problem.

My SSD is partitioned. If I manually set the Trim command in single-user mode (fsck -ffy), then only the boot partition is trimmed. What must I do to trim other partitions or drives?

Either way: Thank you very much!!! • Says: Check out this article, which will tell you how to enable TRIM across the board.

According to the author, this works in Snow Leopard, Lion, Mountain Lion, and Mavericks. • Sascha Says: Hi there, I have an older Macbook Pro (purchased in late 2007) that won’t start up OS X. It worked well up until a year ago or so, until the screen started to show a virus like scramble pattern which gradually got worse and finally debilitated the system. I have since bought other Mac’s and was about to throw my old MacbookPro in the bin, since it would no longer start up.

I gave it one last try the other day and discovered that my old boot camp partition was still intact and that windows 7 which I installed a couple of years ago still starts up and runs perfectly well – no scrambled screen at all and hence this cannot be a hardware issue. However, I’m still unable to start OS X. Here is what I have: 1.

A Macbook Pro from 2007 with an older version of OS X on it (can’t tell which one exactly because I can’t start it up). A partition with windows 7 which works perfectly fine. Here is what I DON’T have: 1. The stupid software DVD from 7 years ago (come on, seriously) 2. A back up of any sort. Here is what I have tried: 1. Safe Mode – does nothing/won’t work/can’t start in Safe Mode 2.

Single user mode (FSK) which worked as explained but did nothing to start up OS X. Insert other start up DVD’s from other Macbook Pro’s I own (waste of time). Here is what happens when I turn on the computer and start OS X: 1.

The chime starts. Screen goes grey. Apple Symbol appears.

The little thing bellow spins. After some time the screens goes blue. The blank blue screen alternates in different shades of blue and occasionally the little spinning thing shows up. End of story.

Any suggestions are welcome Thanks! Sascha • Says: If you have an Apple Store or an authorized Apple dealer or repair center nearby your location, you should be able to bring your old MacBook Pro into them for an OS X reinstallation. If your MacBook was manufactured in 2007, the best version of OS X to run is Snow Leopard (10.6.8). However you can also buy the Snow Leopard installer online at the Apple Store. Because your email address ends in.de, I’m assuming you’re in Germany. Here’s the page for buying Snow Leopard 10.6.8 on your local Apple Store page for €18.

Apple will ship you the installation DVD, and you’ll be able to install OS X. • tulga Says: my Macbook pro is doing the same thing where it is just stuck on the grey screen. I tried the safe boot but the loading on the bottom just appears and disappears and it goes back to original. I tried fsck -fy and the first few times it said **root file system executing fsck_hfs (version diskdev_cmds-540.1~25) **verifying volume when it is mounted with write access.

Journal needed to be replayed but volume is read-only **checking journaled HFS Plus volume. The volume Macintosh HD **checking extents overflow file. Invalid leaf record count ( it should be 237 instead of 259) **checking catalog file. Invalid sibling link (4, 18099) ** the volume Macinto.